rogue territory stanton jean at 6months of wear from originalanalog

Sometimes you find something that not a lot of people know about and realize you’ve stumbled onto something special.  For me, Rogue Territory was that thing.  I was a year into a pair of APC New Standards, and 3 months into a pair of Pure Blue Japan XX-005, when I decided I wanted something a little bit more.

Specifically, I was looking for something a little more special than the completely nondescript APCs.  A little more slim-straight than the PBJ’s, with a more traditional denim.  Maybe it sounds cheesy, but I wanted to find a US brand that was doing what PBJ was doing, only based here.  What I found was one bad-ass pair of jeans, perfectly slim straight with just a tad more taper from knee to leg opening than the PBJs, and way more interesting than APC jeans.  What has proven over time to really stand out Rogue Territory is an outstanding attention to detail.

First, you can tell when you pick up a pair that Karl (Thoennessen, creator of Rogue Territory,) knows more about denim than any of us.  His denim choice is outstanding – wicked durable with beautiful indigo.  The stitching is spot on (which I can tell you not every brand is that passionate about, but makes a tremendous difference.)  The rivets and buttons are branded, but understated with the Rogue Territory feather (Native American inspired.)  The back pockets are nearly unadorned, save a small loop design in the pocket stitching and a pen pocket inside the right back pocket.  The little details are subtle but outstanding, and there are just too many to mention.

But mostly, the fit and wear are crazy good.  I’ve tried slim straight jeans from just about everyone, and I can always find a complaint – too narrow, too much taper, way to slim in the seat, the thigh-to-knee width is either too wide or too skinny.  From the moment I pulled them on, the Stanton had the right proportions – right thigh to knee dimensions, perfect knee to leg opening taper (slight.)  The needed to stretch a bit in the thigh and seat to be just right, which they have, but the denim hasn’t stretched nearly as much as my APCs.  (Sizing note: I only sized down one, and it was exactly the right size.  I have thighs and an ass, so if you’re a stick legged son-of-a-bitch, I suggest going down two.  The denim has stretched nicely, but not too much.  Also, I should have been more disciplined about wearing a belt because the waist is a half size bigger than perfect.)  It’s hard not to be effusive about the Stanton.  I love sliding into these in the morning because they feel like they were tailor made to my body.

Which is why I got into raw denim in the first place.  I fucked hated buying jeans.  I would have allowed someone to yank my short hairs one at a time until I was hairless before I went to the damn mall to buy jeans.  They are either dull and boring, or you look like a bedazzled gay pirate.  Since getting into raw denim in 2007, I’ve had the pleasure of wearing some fantastic denim from Pure Blue Japan, Evisu Heritage, PRPS, Imogene + Willie, APC, Rogue Territory, Nudie and others.  Nothing fits quite as nicely as the Rogue Territory Stanton, which at 6 months is easily going to make it 9-12 months before I rinse or wash.  (Look for a post coming soon that compares all the different jeans in my closet.)

They are fading nicely, and at 6 months without a wash (no stink, btw,) I can see wearing these for at least another 3-4 months without a wash.  And if you’re a work wear denim person, these things are indestructible.  I actually emailed Karl after wearing these for about 3 months and said “Dude, this denim is indestructible.  They barely look worn.”  So enjoy the pics, throw away your True Religions, and order a pair of Rogue Territory Stanton’s immediately.